coolpix p6000 manual focus

coolpix p6000 manual focus

The lens also includes Optical VR image stabilization, helping reduce camera shake when shooting in low light or towards the 112mm telephoto position. The Nikon P6000 includes both an optical viewfinder, and a fairly large 2.7-inch LCD display with 230,000 dot resolution. Optical viewfinders are an increasingly rare option these days, and one that's useful in difficult lighting conditions or when you need to economize on battery life - so it's great to see Nikon include this on the P6000. Nikon's Face-Priority AF can automatically find up to 12 people's faces within a frame, then optimize focus and exposure accordingly. Focusing can also be performed manually. ISO sensitivities ordinarily range from a minimum of ISO 64 to a maximum of ISO 2000. Usefully, it is also possible to limit the range of ISO sensitivities that the Nikon P6000 can automatically select from to a maximum of ISO 100, 200, 400, 800 or 1600 if noise is a concern. Unfortunately, the.NRW format is incompatible with Nikon's Capture NX or Capture NX2, and other third-party applications that support.NEF files. At the current time it seem Mac OS users are rather left out in the dark, with no way to open.NRW files on their platform since ViewNX only supports the format on Windows machines. There's also in-camera barrel distortion correction, a built-in flash, and a hot shoe compatible with Nikon's Speedlight flash system. Power from an EN-EL5 rechargeable Lithium-ion battery, and connectivity options include both Hi-Speed USB and SD video output.Those are the three major premium digicams you can buy today. They don't satisfy every need by a long shot (in fact, they don't compete with long zooms) nor do they compete with jewelry like some ultracompacts I know. If you must know, only the LX3 tempted me but, in the end, the odd optics left me short (60mm telephoto for a long-zoom kind of guy doesn't fly).http://getdol.com/page_data/c270-manual.xml

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The G10 was just too heavy (I'd rather take my Rebel) to be taken seriously even though its images were startling. It's the third time Nikon has charged up the hill with a flagship camera; and while the P5000 was too slow on the trigger for anything but still lifes, and the P5100 was improved but still flawed, the Nikon P6000 seems to find new ways to disappoint. Right next to it is an infrared receiver. The Nikon P6000 still has the knurled ring around the lens to protect the threads for accessory lenses as well as the optical viewfinder (which still has no dioptric adjustment). But the flash is gone, moved into a popup housing that really doesn't popup all that far from the top of the Nikon P6000. Still, the further from the lens, the better. I loved the Command Dial on the P5100. It seemed lifted from a dSLR. But this one seems stolen from a kid's toy. It works, it just isn't pleasant to use. No need to stand and applaud. Only Panasonic seems to get this right. It should be a switch, easy to find and use. There is a small green LED on the Nikon P6000's Power button that blinks alternately with the AF LED near the optical viewfinder on the back panel when the camera is charging. The Nikon P6000's Zoom ring's tab is a bit larger and easier to find. I suspect Nikon wasn't worried about balance, though. They were probably trying to clear as much space on top for the GPS radio to read the skies. The GPS radio is tucked into the corner of the left side all by itself. There are still five buttons along the left of the LCD, which is now 2.7 inches rather than 2.5 inches. But they do different things. There are also three more buttons than on the back of the P5100, suggesting five wasn't enough. I like the trend toward more physical controls, but it didn't play out well for me on the Nikon P6000. I was confused about which button did what in a way I never was with the P5100.http://www.duz-drustvo.si/uporabnik/file/c270-service-manual.xml

It's the same number of pixels (230,000), so yes, the per-inch resolution is technically a bit lower. Reading the menus was not as clean as I remember. The 'e' was nearly a splotch rather than a letter. Maybe the D300 has spoiled me, but I remember the P5100's menus rather fondly. Note the hot shoe has moved to the center. The Canon G10 was the loser here, by quite a lot, simply for its size. All eight of them. They are: Fn for Function, My for MyMenu, MF for Manual Focus (yes, you can manually focus the P6000), Playback, and Menu. Nothing really illogical about that. But compare that lineup to the P5100: Fn, Display, Playback, Menu, Trash. Trash is under the Nikon P6000's Multi Selector, an uninhabited position on the P5100. And Display is next to the optical viewfinder (as if it were an EVF). It pops up the flash, of course. There is a funny little Pacman face next to the flash icon on the button, perhaps to distinguish the button's opening function from the same flash icon on the Multi Selector, which cycles through the Flash modes. If it had been me staying late to work on the icons, I'd just have turned the flash icon upside down, so it was pointing up, on the popup button. No Pacman needed. Hold the button in to activate the function and twirl the Command Dial to change the setting. Press it, and you are reminded, if you are silly enough to forget, that you must set the Focus mode on the Multi Selector to Manual Focus before the button does anything but remind you to do that. It should be smart enough to switch over itself, but no. Once you do switch to Manual Focus mode, holding in the MF button displays an enlarged center section of your image and twisting the Command Dial changes focus. There's a depth scale on the right side of the screen so you know which direction you're going. Not quite as intuitive as a dSLR lens, of course, but better than nothing. No need to wade through the Nikon P6000's menu system to find some obscure but dear command.

Just stick it on your MyMenu screen. It's the best in the business for my money. Canon has fortunately evolved a bit but most camera manufacturers give about as much thought to their menu systems as cellphone designers give to theirs. They just don't worry about how usable it is. Nikon does. That's very much appreciated out here in the real world. Program, Aperture Priority, Shutter Priority, and Manual exposure modes are right there on the Command Dial. And there are those two User configurations we mentioned, too (U1 and U2). The Nikon P6000's menu system isn't very clear about your options so here they are: And it also includes a Picture Bank option (more about that later, too). Neither of these were on the P5100. Much has been made of that and even more of its small one-shot buffer. You shoot Raw with the Nikon P6000 and you wait until the buffer is cleared before the P6000 pays any attention to you. Note the highly saturated blues in the JPEG, though. I was shooting a lily and knew I had to fiddle with the exposure because it was an overcast day and the lily was deep in a very old olive tree. That was a bit annoying. But once I remembered what I was doing, I was glad. It's the kind of shot where you aren't going to go back to reshoot, so you want to have as much latitude as possible on your computer. The next day, working with the image in Lightroom, I was very glad to have the Nikon P6000's Raw data to work with and got just the detail in the shadows and texture of the white lily I'd hoped to come home with. This review has been so long delayed that frankly everything I use has caught up with it, so I wasn't inconvenienced like I was with the LX3's Raw format (which, at the time, only Silkpix and dcraw understood). Proprietary Raw formats are a pain when they're new, because too often the company's own software is the only one available; by the time I got the P6000, however, that problem was solved.

The NRW file takes the first available number and the JPEG takes the next, not the same, number. On its digital SLRs (and most cameras that can save a JPEG of a Raw capture) the same number is used, with only the extension differing. So it's no problem telling which Raw file goes with which JPEG. I consequently renamed my Raw captures to match the JPEG in the Gallery. So noise control isn't nearly as good. The megapixels do deliver detail, but not when the signals confuse each other. You can force the feature on or leave it at the default Auto. One of my delights, anyway. And what really makes me smile is a choice of aspect ratios. Then comes the fun stuff: 3:2 (4224x2816), which is the old 35mm standby; 16:9 (4224x2816), which is what your HDTV does at significantly lower resolution; and 1:1 (3168x3168), which is square (like a Holga, you know). You don't get these options in Raw mode, of course, but that needn't stop you from cropping a Raw later. The Nikon P6000 is no faster, but is wider at 28mm; although it's a shorter 112mm at telephoto.Nikon claims the image stabilization (Vibration Reduction) contributes to faster framing on the monitor and smoother action in Movie mode. That's generally true, but I did notice that Movie mode was remarkably smooth. Nikon only lists the availability of its Wide-angle Converter WC-E76 but on previous models I've used both the older wide angle converter and the telephoto converter without a problem. I didn't have the adapter (or the time to get one) to try them on the Nikon P6000, however. Standard, Neutral, Vivid, Monochrome, Custom 1, and Custom 2 are the options. And within them you can fiddle with things like image sharpening, contrast, and saturation. It's a lot like what you get with Canon's Picture Styles. And it gives you control over the camera's JPEG rendering. It's your camera, after all. The 16-bit color LCD just isn't going to give you enough information to make intelligent decisions.

That's why I rely on a live histogram rather than how things look on the LCD to evaluate exposure. Unfortunately, there is no live histogram on the Nikon P6000). Then I can fine-tune on my computer, where I can see the difference. The target populates with satellite locations if any are found. Indoors it was impossible to link to them, though, so no screen shot of success. There are 24 satellites around the globe, and they can nail your longitude and latitude down to a few feet. They have trouble with altitude, though. Actually see, that is, where they were taken on a map. That isn't the same thing as the view they record, of course (unless you are looking down). But it's a nice way to see where you and your Nikon P6000 went on vacation. Nikon ViewNX (a free application included with the Nikon P6000) is one application that can map your GPS-encoded images using Google Maps. Note that the altitude tag returns no usable data, nor does the direction tag (the radio can't tell in which direction you're pointed). Digital zoom was very slow and stepped. You are indeed revealing the location from which you shot. If it was a private residence and you were shooting individuals or their rare Oceanic art collection, some mischievous son of a pirate might find that overly exciting. Keep that in mind. Back in SFO, under cloudy skies I had trouble; and even when I wasn't having trouble, it took a very long time for the camera to link. You do have to give it five minutes when you first enable just about any GPS. Some people claim it can take up to 15 minutes, but the Nikon P6000 usually managed pretty quickly. It's important to remember to turn off the GPS radio when you're done using it, because even if the Nikon P6000 is off, the radio will come on every 90 minutes to refresh its position data, which will drain the battery more quickly. Instead it includes a brick adapter that plugs into the camera.

That's convenient in one way, because you don't have to take the battery out to charge it, but you do have to bring along a power brick with two cords dangling off of it. If you are using the Nikon P6000 in a studio, of course, it's fine, just plug it in and keep shooting. But on the Nikon P6000 your location information is only updated at specific intervals. Your position data is updated every five seconds, but not if you're zooming or pressing the shutter; the Nikon P6000 will wait another five seconds if there's no activity to record another bit of position data. Tests at the lab were better, but still by no means spot-on, reporting the shot's position off by 50 feet in one direction, and 25 in another direction. This wasn't really the excellent performance we were expecting, but it wasn't terrible, either; and both times our position was covered with clouds, or in among buildings or tall trees, which effectively reduced the camera's exposure to satellites that were closer to the horizon. It linked to the satellites in a couple of minutes and recorded accurate positions for all my shots. Understand there isn't much up there to interfere. It represents ideal conditions; except perhaps the large television antennas up on the Sutro Tower, which may or may not interfere. And it's certainly admirable that they've made the service available. Maybe it's not Flickr or even Kodak Gallery, but it's an easy way to share an image without clogging up someone's email. When you plug the P6000 into your Ethernet router to transfer files, they will only go to Picturetown (after suitable setup). You cannot route them to your computer. Well, that's not a problem. Just buy an Eye-Fi SD card and you can wirelessly transfer to your computer or dozens of online services (including Picturetown). You can even record video on the P6000 with the Eye-Fi. Current Eye-Fi firmware won't transfer the video but you can always use Nikon Transfer to do that.

It also lets you set up your Network profile, identify the sender's email address, turn the feature off, set a password (only four digits for some reason) and set the camera key information. To use the service, you actually have to visit Picturetown and set up and account. Metal tripod socket, speaker. Note the Ethernet port above the battery. It seemed spry enough that I didn't have to keep the camera on between shooting opportunities. Prefocus lag was just 0.058 second, improving on the P5100's 0.066. I really didn't feel penalized by the P6000's autofocus performance, a first for a P-series camera. Single shot cycle time when shooting Raw more than doubled to 5.38 seconds and continuous mode is not even supported for Raw files. And, in fact, I like the reds and blues better on the P5100 than the P6000. Take a look at the fire alarm and the blue skies to see what I mean. Both are unnatural. Highlights are blown and there is an odd glow where they meet the dark background at the top of the hydrant on the left side. It is, however, a very sharp image with excellent detail. The markings on the proportional scale are clearly discernible, if a little soft around the edges. Very fine detail takes on the air of a painting, rather than a photograph, even at this low ISO setting, and printed images show this characteristic at larger sizes, making 16x20 and 13x19-inch images look slightly unnatural. 11x14-inch images look better, however. There is very little. Corners are very sharp as well. And the lines of resolution, both horizontal and vertical, are distinct to the limits of the test patterns. Impressive. So as long as detail is distinct to begin with, the Nikon P6000 will render it reasonably well, but as contrast is reduced, detail even at low ISOs is lost. The marquee features like GPS and Ethernet are no reason to take it seriously, though. To appreciate the Nikon P6000, you have to shoot with it.

Image quality is mixed, however, requiring that you shoot Raw to get the most detail, especially in low-contrast areas. The good news is that it's an option on the Nikon P6000, though we still don't recommend shooting above ISO 400 for decent quality 8x10-inch prints. That a new feature like GPS isn't all you might hope for isn't a surprise, but a 13.5-megapixel sensor should really turn out better JPEGs than the Nikon P6000 manages. The good news is that the Raw files are better if processed properly, and look good with Nikon ViewNX, a free download. The bad news is that the default settings output oversaturated images. Unfortunately, the Nikon P6000 didn't stand out from the two other major enthusiast cameras when it came to overall printed performance; both actually outperformed the P6000, with the Panasonic LX3 easily producing 16x20-inch prints from its 10-megapixel JPEGs and the Canon G10 outputting good quality 20x30-inch prints straight from the camera. GPS isn't as accurate as we'd like, and the unusual ethernet port linking only to Nikon Picturetown seems oddly limiting, especially when you consider that you only get 2GB of free space and the average card is over 4GB these days. It's not that the Nikon P6000 is a bad camera at all, indeed it's improved over the P5100 in many ways, it just doesn't come together as the complete package we'd like to see for a Dave's Pick. NikonHead over here. Some cameras won't retract their lenses and shut down until the buffer is cleared. Slow cards may also limit length of bursts in continuous mode. ISO sensitivity also affects cycle times and burst mode performance, with higher ISOs generally increasing cycle times and reducing burst performance. The camera's Continuous mode isn't speedy, but will help when shooting children or average moving subjects. Otherwise, the Coolpix P6000 should handle everyday shooting needs without feeling too sluggish.

Although battery life is average, we recommend you pick up a spare battery and keep it freshly charged and on-hand for extended outings. Nikon. Can you fine folks please check this on your own P6000s and let me know what you find, before I call Nikon warranty service (yet again).How's your lighting, what's your shutter speed, daytime, is it out of focus or blur?I think I hadn't noticed this because I rarely use manual focus on my compact.I have a P6000, but have never used manual focus mode with it. I found it a little difficult to tell when the scene at infinity was in precise focus even using the magnified square on the LCD screen. But when I looked at the resulting image that I downloaded to my computer, the objects at infinity looked sharp to me. In fact the whole scene looked sharp, even things in the foreground. Not sure why your P6000 would be showing blurry at infinity though. Hope this helps. I'm suspecting a lens calibration problem. I don't use MF that often (despite being an FM2 and rangefinder junkie), but it's still an annoying enough problem to warrant fixing while it's still under warranty. Thanks again! k -- hide signature -- It is as if it is focussing past infinity. On my camera, I would estimate that true infinity is probably at least 5 or 6 clicks downwards from the maximum, at the wide angle setting (I didn't try the telephoto). One curious thing I observed: Suppose I am at the wide angle setting and manually wheel the focus to its maximum (farthest subject) distance. Then I quickly zoom the lens outward and then back inward to the original wide angle setting. Kind of curious. I pulled out a tape measure, manually set the focus to 1m, and then shot along the tape measure's length. The best focus was at about 14 to 15 inches. Oh well! My P6000 is going out of warranty in a few weeks, but I'm not going to bother sending it in.

I just complained to them politely about this being my third time having to send the camera back for service, and they're going to pay for the shipping. Thanks for confirming that I'm not the only one with the problem, though! -- hide signature -- It includes updates to Panasonic's DFD autofocus system, creative photo modes, and video features that come close to matching the more expensive S1H. 248 Nikon Z5 initial review review Sep 1, 2020 at 13:00 Nikon's new entry-level mirrorless full-framer feels anything but entry-level. And it may well be the model best positioned to convert remaining F-mount holdouts to Z-mount. 1193 Canon EOS R6 Review: not the hybrid king, but a great photographers' camera review Aug 26, 2020 at 14:40 The Canon EOS R6 doesn't quite live up to the full promise of its do-everything specs, but it's a great photographers' camera. 1221 Sony a9 II review review Aug 19, 2020 at 13:00 The Sony a9 II didn't make a huge splash in the industry when it launched, but it's certainly left an impression on us. Read our full review to see why it's got the best autofocus system we've ever seen. 747 Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark IV initial review first impressions Aug 4, 2020 at 06:00 The Olympus OM-D E-M10 IV is the company's entry-level DSLR-shaped mirrorless camera. While it has a higher resolution sensor and new processor, its biggest focus is on selfies. We've selected our favorite lenses for Sony mirrorlses cameras in several categories to make your decisions easier. The best camera bargains of 2020 Aug 13, 2020 at 21:58 If you're looking for a high-quality camera, you don't need to spend a ton of cash, nor do you need to buy the latest and greatest new product on the market. In our latest buying guide we've selected some cameras that might be a bit older but still offer a lot of bang for the buck. These midrange cameras should have capable autofocus systems, lots of direct controls and the latest sensors offering great image quality.

Best cameras for sports and action Aug 11, 2020 at 01:46 What's the best camera for shooting sports and action. Fast continuous shooting, reliable autofocus and great battery life are just three of the most important factors. In this buying guide we've rounded-up several great cameras for shooting sports and action, and recommended the best. Slow AF was a primary concern for the P6000’s predecessor, which earned praise otherwise for a logical interface, excellent styling and build, and a solidly performing flash system. With this platform as a starting point, Nikon’s road to making the P6000 a strong competitor seems clear and it begins at the auto focus system. On the processing side, Nikon’s Coolpix Picture Control System allows users to select from a list of processing mode presets, or manually fine-tune parameters like contrast and saturation. Instead, a new raw format (NRW) appears to be designed primarily to process in camera (though the release of Adobe’s latest version of Camera Raw means that the P6000 is now supported in Photoshop CS3 and in beta form in Lightroom 2). The ability to tweak a shot after the fact using the camera’s Picture Control System options isn’t a bad addition, but the use of this nonstandard raw format that’s not compatible with Nikon’s advanced workflow software may be a hang-up for long-time Nikonians. The fact that the camera takes a full five seconds to clear the buffer and ready itself for another shot after each NRW capture, combined with the fact that the files themselves are a healthy 20MB apiece, will probably dissuade most other shooters from shooting too many raws with the P6000 though the addition of the P6000 to Adobe’s supported list is a big step in the right direction. Playback is accessed via a dedicated playback button, but the camera has to be powered on first via the power button.

While AF can be set to work continuously while capturing video something not every still camera can do the zoom is locked during movie recording. Overall, the P6000’s movies look fine and even sound alright, but this limited range of options may put off some power users. This in turn makes it easy to sort images by where they were taken or add them to a map in geo-aware photo sharing applications. Rather, GPS mode provides a home for the receiver’s handful of settings and options. Kicking the P6000 into GPS mode and turning on the receiver for the first time after the battery has been out, the P6000 takes several minutes to update its data and acquire a position lock. Of course, the weaker your signal, the longer the initial update tends to take; a three-bar signal strength indicator tells you what your status is, and your best bet for acquiring an initial lock will be in a location with a clear view of the sky. Compared to a dedicated GPS unit, the P6000’s weak receiver struggles indoors, in urban areas, or anywhere else that there’s even slight interference. A “Valid storage period” option allows you to set the window at which the GPS updates, ensuring that you automatically have correct data (if the P6000 can’t update with new data in the specified interval, it doesn’t append geographic data). Of course, this constant GPS check the default interval is one minute takes a toll on battery life, and the fact that the camera will automatically attempt to update geographic information periodically even when it’s turned off if you enable GPS means a further juice drain. The technology may prove to be sufficient for basic image geotaggging under ideal conditions, but we found it best to manually update the data as needed and enable GPS on an image-by-image basis in order to make the most of the P6000’s already under-speced battery. Unlike the manufacturer’s Wi-Fi equipped S models, however, the P6000 gets an ethernet port for direct network connectivity instead.

Firing up the connection is as easy as either connecting the camera to both ethernet and AC power (or connecting the network and switching the mode over to the Network Settings position if you’re working on batteries). There are a few initial configuration issues to address to make sure the images get routed correctly once they’re uploaded, and for this you’ll unfortunately have to enter text via the four-way controller. The P6000 uploads all images that have been flagged for the Picture Bank, and upload speeds are appropriately quick given the direct connection. It seems, however, that you’re still only getting a downscaled version of the image on my Picturetown. If you’re only planning to use the images on the web, this arrangement with the camera automatically uploading its files as soon as you plug it up to charge (assuming you remember to connect anethernet cable as well) may well make sense, but for storage or backup purposes, it’s not really there yet. I for one would have been happy to give up the GPS receiver and the wired ethernet connection in exchange for a Wi-Fi radio and a more refined and less restrictive version of Nikon’s wireless image upload system as seen on the Coolpix S cameras. Visually and structurally, the P6000 is a gorgeous camera: its textured rubber handgrip is ideal in its size and feel, several knobs and a pop-up flash give off a decided “retro” vibe, and the Nikon’s alloy construction lends an air of indestructibility to the whole thing. Building for serious photographers, Nikon has again succeeded in channeling classic small cameras of the past into its latest advanced P model. Aesthetically, high-quality construction makes the P6000 pleasant to hold and use. In short, those looking for a back-up pocket shooter to go with their DSLR kit should feel right at home with the visual and functional package Nikon has put together in this case.

The P6000 has added a few more buttons compared to its P5100 predecessor, but the basic idea remains the same, with a four-way controller and a multi-function scroll wheel sharing menu navigation duties. Even the full manual mode works surprisingly seamlessly, using the exposure compensation button to switch back and forth between adjusting shutter and aperture values (though I do wish the metering indicator stayed on-screen all the time in manual mode, instead of only popping up while you’re changing settings). As a rule, the options are clear and grouped logically, keeping menu clutter throughout to a minimum. The system is a bit unintuitive where calling up and dismissing lists is concerned: the Function button option, for instance, which calls up the list of ISO settings by default, must be held down to keep the list on-screen while you use the scroll wheel (the d-pad doesn’t work in this view) to make changes, which makes changing the camera’s sensitivity setting a two-handed operation. Similarly, menus seem to dismiss differently depending on which menu you’re in: sometimes the OK button does it, and sometimes it’s the Menu key. After some time with the camera I still don’t feel entirely comfortable with quickly navigating my menu choices, but maybe I’m just a slow learner. Although there’s a master menu that covers all available settings and options, primary access to commonly adjusted parameters can also be handled via a six-slot “My Menu.” Yeah, it’s a stupid name, but don’t let that turn you off: the custom menu, which is accessed via its own button (second from the top in the row of dedicated buttons left of the LCD), is truly brilliant. From the factory, the P6000 comes with adjustments for things like image quality and size, Picture Control setting (Nikon’s color mode system), and white balance in the list.